After Jay Miller resigned as wine taster for The Wine Advocate, it was a mystery who would take over this task and how would he or she do it. The name of the replacement was announced by WineSur: Neal Martin. Now, what is yet to be found is his opinion on Argentina’s wine industry and its products.
In this article, the expert shares a deep analysis in which he highlights the positive and the negative aspects of the sector.
Which is your perception of Argentine wines?
Coming from an Old World perspective, I think Argentina has enormous potential. Its great strength is that the country has become synonymous with a well respected grape variety in Malbec that can achieve great heights. Perhaps what we have not really seen yet is its ageing potential in the hands of great winemakers. What does a 20 or 30-year old Malbec taste like? We have that to look forward to. I think if the top wines can not only be praised in their youth, but like great Bordeaux or Burgundy, reward those who cellar them away, then this will really put Argentina on the map and maybe the serious connoisseurs who might be dismissive of Argentinean wine will take it more seriously.
How do you prefer Malbec, single or blended?
To be honest, both. But I am more interested in Malbec as a single varietal or with a minimum addition of up to say 15-20% of the blend, not enough to “dilute” the character of the wine. That is very important.
Due to the fast growth of Argentina in various markets, such us the US, do you believe Argentine wines’ fame will last? Is it likely for them to keep growing? How will Malbec fare on this point?
It depends on other factors. If the wines become too expensive when everyone is experiencing economic difficulties, then your market will shrink no matter how good the wine is or how passionate you are about it. Be careful of alcohol levels when segments of the market are moving away from that style. Use the optimum amount of oak, not the maximum, so that the wine speaks of “somewhere”. Perhaps China will suddenly get a taste for Malbec? Who knows. The important thing is for producers to make wines that are true to themselves.
In general terms, what are the main problems that Argentine wines face?
I probably addressed them above. Having worked in the trade, I know how sensitive price can be. Producers need to consider how many countries are now producing premium wines and how small that market is. For example, the average price in the UK for a bottle of wine is under £5.00.
Is there a possibility to grow on whites and rosés as an option? Could Torrontés be that option?
Of course, it is important that Argentina produces both white and rosé. It’s a case of seeking out the cooler micro-climates to make top class wines. Torrontes can make very good wine, though I have not found one that is truly great. But then again, that is no problem if it offers value for money. Not all varieties should strive to be “iconic”.
Translation: Rocío Acosta
Tags: Argentine wines, Jay Miller, malbec, Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate, Torrontés
